Signs you need this
- Brown rings growing on drywall under an ensuite
- Water meter turning with every tap closed
- Pinholes or green crust on copper
- Low pressure at every fixture at once
Kit on the van, and the method
- Pipe cutters for copper, PEX and galvanized
- Torch, flux and lead-free solder
- Crimp and expansion tools for PEX
- Pressure gauge and moisture meter
Before we leave: Pressure-hold the repaired run and watch the gauge before walls close.
Old lead or galvanized lines
A pre-war or early post-war house may still draw through lead, and some newer ones by galvanized steel. Lead is a health concern because it can leach into drinking water. Galvanized steel rusts from the inside, narrowing the bore until the shower loses pressure whenever someone runs a tap. Copper services from later decades usually last well but can develop leaks where they pass through the foundation.
A simple test: find where the line enters the basement, on the house side of the meter, and drag a key edge lightly across it. Soft, dull grey metal that shines silver may be lead. A magnet sticks to galvanized steel. Copper shows its orange-brown colour. We confirm this on site before any recommendation.
Trenching options
A traditional replacement digs an open trench from the curb stop to the foundation. It is straightforward and lets us see the whole route, but it disturbs the lawn, driveway or walkway in between.
Trenchless methods can reduce the disturbance. With a pull or boring method, we dig a pit at each end and pull new pipe through the soil between them. Whether trenchless suits a particular house depends on soil conditions, the route, other buried utilities and the depth of the line. We will tell you which approach fits and why.
| Method | Strength | Limit |
|---|---|---|
| Open trench | Full visibility, simple | Most surface disruption |
| Trenchless pull or bore | Less digging | Depends on soil and route |
Town side
The service is divided at the curb stop. Everything streetward of that valve is the Town's; from that valve to your foundation the pipe is the owner's. A lead or failing line on your side often prompts questions about the municipal side as well, since replacing only one half leaves old pipe in service. We help you contact the Region so both halves can be coordinated where possible.
Utility locates are required before digging, and the work is generally inspected. Our note on plumbing permits outlines the process.
Inside the house
At the foundation we seal the new pipe through the wall, reinstall or replace the main shut-off, and reconnect the meter. Many homes benefit from a new full-port ball valve at this point, which is easier to close in an emergency than an old gate valve. If interior piping is also galvanized, replacing just the service may not fully restore pressure, and repiping may be worth a look. For persistent weak flow, our low water pressure note covers other causes.
Before the crew arrives, clear the path between the meter and the front wall, and move anything stored near the foundation where the pipe enters.
Asked on the phone
Is my incoming pipe made of lead?
Inspect the line just upstream of the meter, where it comes through the wall. If a key scrape turns dull grey metal bright silver, suspect lead. We can confirm it on site.
Will my water be off all day?
Usually for part of the day. We prepare as much as possible before shutting off the supply.
Do I need to replace the town side too?
That is the municipality's decision for their portion. We help you reach the Region so the work can be coordinated.