Ask the right questions
- When was the water heater installed, and is it owned or rented?
- Has the basement ever had water in it, and from what source?
- Has the sewer lateral been inspected, cleared or replaced?
- Did past owners pull permits for renovations or a basement bath?
- Does the house have a backwater valve, and when was it last checked?
Look for yourself
- Main valve and service. Find the shut-off and note the pipe material entering the house. Lead or galvanized is a red flag in older homes.
- Supply pipes. In an unfinished basement ceiling you can see whether lines are copper, PEX, galvanized or the grey plastic called polybutylene.
- Drains. Study the main stack. Whether it is iron, black plastic or both, streaks of rust on the iron mean trouble ahead.
- Water pressure. Run the kitchen tap and flush the upstairs toilet at the same time. A big drop suggests restricted piping.
- Stains. Check ceilings under bathrooms and around the water heater base.
Field note. Running a camera down the lateral ranks among the cheapest safeguards before buying a house with mature trees out front. A replacement lateral can run into thousands.
Water heater age
Decode the serial on the heater's plate; makers bury the build date in it. A tank past ten years is likely to need replacement soon. If it is rented, the rental contract transfers with the house in many cases.
Rural properties
Homes on wells and septic need extra checks: a recent water test, the age and condition of the pump and pressure tank, and septic system records including the last pump-out date and any inspection report.
Negotiating
If inspections reveal plumbing issues, a written estimate helps you negotiate price or repairs.
See sewer camera inspection, household pipe materials and private well basics.